Bleeding front brake challenges

[Rottie]

I am on my nth attempt to get the last of the air out of my front brakes. I even have a vacuum bleeder but I just can't seem to get out that last bit of air. Any tips/tricks/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

David :confused:

[Over TWO Customs]

Take the calipers off and spread the pads apart
If you have a radial with a bleeder on the master cylinder then you need to bleed that as well.
After a solid bleed with no air bubbles it may be necessary to pump and hold the brake while you crack the bleeder a few times.
Make sure you are bleeding the master cylinder on the hardest setting if adjustable 1-6
and if that doesnt work, hit it with a hammer

[Rottie]

No bleeder on the master cylinder but I'll try backing off the pads and see what happens.

Thanks!

[TLR67]

Bleed the Master cylinder from the Banjo Bolts underneath. More than likely you have air there... Also when done take a ziptie and hold the lever down overnight...Next morning repeat.. Air rises so all should be out after that.

[Todd]

. Also when done take a ziptie and hold the lever down overnight...Next morning repeat.. Air rises so all should be out after that.:crackup: Ask Britt Lynn what he thinks that procedure does. :crackup:

And im with him, i dont see how this could possibly move any air bubbles.

[Rottie]

Bleed the Master cylinder from the Banjo Bolts underneath. More than likely you have air there... Also when done take a ziptie and hold the lever down overnight...Next morning repeat.. Air rises so all should be out after that.

I had heard about the zip tie trick but did not think I could bleed from the BB. I'll give it a whirl and let you know how I make out. Thanks for the help!

[Gypsyangel]

Get yourself a large syringe. You can usually find one that's used for livestock at Tractor supply company.Or if you know a dentist, an irrigating syring works realy well. Then get a section of fish aquarium tubing. One end over the syringe tip, one end over bleeder nipple. Open the bleeder valve and pull back on the syringe. The brake fluid will flow right on through and get pulled into the syringe. Make sure you close the valve before removing the aquarium hose and watch your fluid level. This will pull it down pretty quick.

I've used this method to bleed brakes on bikes and clutch fluid in car. Works like a charm when you're faced with this task alone.

[Over TWO Customs]

:crackup: Ask Britt Lynn what he thinks that procedure does. :crackup:

And im with him, i dont see how this could possibly move any air bubbles.

You may not think it works but I can attest that this process will actually bleed the brakes. I have done this on a fresh line install in the past. Filled the res. and locked the handle down overnight. The fluid will drain to the bottom and force the air to the top.

[Todd]

Lorne, im just basing my opinion on someone that has done more brakes that you, me, Huey, and half the mechanics i know has done. The man is a genius when it comes to brakes. You put a hydraulic system under pressure, and its not gonna "drain" to the bottom and force air to the top. Yes, the air may have risen to the top, but thats just the nature of physics. Im not gonna get into a debate on it, as everyone has what they think "works" for them. Im sure ive not done as many as you or alot of folks have, but i have bled a shitload of brake lines, as well as installed alot of new systems on bikes, and yes, ive even tried the zip tie method myself, didnt do any better than if the brakes are bled right the first time. :up:

[Over TWO Customs]

Lorne, im just basing my opinion on someone that has done more brakes that you, me, Huey, and half the mechanics i know has done. The man is a genius when it comes to brakes. You put a hydraulic system under pressure, and its not gonna "drain" to the bottom and force air to the top. Yes, the air may have risen to the top, but thats just the nature of physics. Im not gonna get into a debate on it, as everyone has what they think "works" for them. Im sure ive not done as many as you or alot of folks have, but i have bled a shitload of brake lines, as well as installed alot of new systems on bikes, and yes, ive even tried the zip tie method myself, didnt do any better than if the brakes are bled right the first time. :up:

In no way is it the best method to bleed them... but if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere... it'll get er done!

Bear Grylls that sucker! Shoe lace around the lever style.... lol

[TLR67]

Lorne, im just basing my opinion on someone that has done more brakes that you, me, Huey, and half the mechanics i know has done. The man is a genius when it comes to brakes. You put a hydraulic system under pressure, and its not gonna "drain" to the bottom and force air to the top. Yes, the air may have risen to the top, but thats just the nature of physics. Im not gonna get into a debate on it, as everyone has what they think "works" for them. Im sure ive not done as many as you or alot of folks have, but i have bled a shitload of brake lines, as well as installed alot of new systems on bikes, and yes, ive even tried the zip tie method myself, didnt do any better than if the brakes are bled right the first time. :up:

I have full on respect for Britt however Todd I do know some of the top AMA Teams use velcro straps for this as well... Just sayin...

[Rottie]

TLR wins the prize. I cracked the banjo bolt at the top and bled it out only 2 cranks and it came out PERFECT. I didn't have to do anything else and now the handle stays at the same position every time under full braking. Thank you very much!

David

[TLR67]

Glad to help!