Chain/Sprocket Replacement CBR600 F4i

[MikeyV]

Any advice for someone who has never done it before? OEM or aftermarket? Most econimical place to get parts? +/- teeth? What not to do?

[Over TWO Customs]

To answer your post there are many options for chain and sprocket combos.

- First to know is what pitch chain and sprockets you need. 520/525/530. The pitch is the chain and sprocket width.
- Next is the length of the chain. Most manuals will have a stock length and most shops and dealers can get you a chain the exact length for stock gearing.
- Sprocket size is going to be based on rider preference. If you decrease your front sprocket size you gain acceleration and lose top end speed. If you increase your rear sprocket size it has the same effect. That being said the front sprocket ratio is around 2:1 to the rear. EXAMPLE - a stock bike with a 17 tooth front and 42 tooth rear. Going to a 16 front is like adding 2 teeth to the rear sprocket and vice versa. If you commute and spend a lot of time on the highways at cruising speeds you will not want to increase your gearing more than 2 teeth.
- Steel vs Aluminum. You can get OEM steel sprockets or aluminum. Aluminum is lighter but will not have the longevity of a steel sprocket.
- Pitch conversion - If your bike comes standard with a 530 pitch or 525 pitch the only advantage to changing to a 520 is weight. The price difference is hardly worth it.
- You can order parts online from just about anywhere. Chain and sprocket combos can run anywhere from $120 - $300 depending on the brand, style, color, etc. Make sure you get a reputable brand.
- When it comes to chains you want an O ring or X ring style chain.

- Changing sprockets and chains is simple with the correct tools. The front sprocket will require an impact gun to get on and off easily. The rear is no harder than removing the rear wheel.
To break the chain you will need a grinder or chain breaker. To install the new master link you will need a tool to compress it onto the new chain. Rivet master links offer more peace of mind as a rider and mechanic than clip style.

If you have not done this before I would advise to seek someone that has or take it to a shop. Our shop rate for chain and sprockets is $60 flat. Of course other shops will charge accordingly.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

One thing Lorne said that I'd like to clarify on: The only other reason people change from the stock pitch (525, 530, etc) to 520 is if they go to the track often. At the majority of track days/events, there are more spares in 520 than most other sizes, that's why most track riders have made the conversion to 520. Also, most track riders are less worried about overall longevity, because they change chains/sprockets/oil much more frequently than many of us street riders. Switching to 520 (or anything lighter than stock) on a street bike has no practical purpose, and will end up giving you a shorter useful life.

[Derrick]

:yeathat:

[bluerider]

I did a sprocket only change on my R6 because at the time it only had about 4K total on it. I went -1 on the front and +2 on the rear and went back with steel spockets front and rear and they have held up great over the last 6K + miles. Did not have to alter the chain and there is still plenty of adjustment left available. I now have exactly a 500 rpm increase over stock at the same speed. ie 70 mph was 7K stock and is now 7500 with the change over. Another thing to consider is the speedo error that will accompany any gearing change. I purchased a "speedo healer" that according to my GPS puts my speed right on the money and most likely more accurate than stock. Its not nessarary to do but it does keep unwanted extra mile accumulating on your odo. IMO one of the cheapest mods you can do that has a true seat of the pants result.

[MikeyV]

What are a few good brands? There are a ton out there. I want something middle ground...best bang for the buck I guess.

[JSKeezy]

Renthal, Driven, AFAM....

[MikeyV]

Lots of varying opinions on different sites for 520 vs 525, alum vs steel, changing the chain and sprockets at the same time or not. I think I'm going with -1 on the front or +2 on the rear but not both. I want to make a change but nothing too drastic to begin with. It also looks like my local shop has basically the same prices as I can get a kit online...definitely not the norm.

[TLR67]

Vortex Hardened Anodized and RK Chains...

[AdrenalineBoyz]

Moto-heaven.com has the best products and prices when it comes to motorcylces... If that wasnt good enough... enter ADBOYZ when checking out and get an additional 10% off your entire order.... :handclap:

[MikeyV]

Thanks all for the input. I went with Vortex/RK from Capital Cycle in Macon, -1/stock, mostly because that's what they could get without waiting forever. Bryan and the other guys there there have been great putting up with me - I'm new to bikes and always have tons of questions when I order something, and sometime tons of questions and don't order anything. I know they get sick of it. By the way, -1/stock, however small the change, made a big difference in acceleration. I'm very pleased with the results. I did the change myself with my 9 year old assistant in about an hour and a half. Probably could have done it in an hour alone. Ha! Next project is brakes and lines!