You electrically inclined peeps, and those with soldering/wiring experience

[steve c]

My track bike needs to be converted from keyed ignition to switched ignition. The thread (that looks pretty credible) on SV Rider (http://www.georgiasportbike.com/o%09http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=112844&highlight=ignition+switch) says to solder in a 100ohm 1/2 watt resistor, and jumper some other stuff. Not too bad.

The ignition wires are standard size and the resistors I've see are tiny little bitty things (surface mount). How do I solder the tiny resistor into the big thick wire? Is there a special type of resistor, or a "resistor holder" I should be looking for? Where do I find such a thing?

Help out the electrically challenged :up: :D

Thanks,

- Steve

[wallypiper]

1/2 watt at 12vdc is a tiny fraction of an amp so I would assume that this resistor is going into some very low energy circuit that just provides an "enable" input to the ECU or ignition module or some other similar logic level function. If the 1/2 watt spec is correct, you can just solder the wire to the lead on the resistor, then shrink some shrink wrap over it. Loose resistors, such as the ones you can get at Radio Shack, have a 1" or 1-1/2" lead on each end. Make sure there's no strain on the wire after you're done, though. The resistor leads are very light gauge wire and can easily be broken or pulled loose from the resistor itself.

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160224w345.jpg

100 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5
Model: 271-1108
Catalog #: 271-1108

$0.99

[steve c]

... you can just solder the wire to the lead on the resistor, then shrink some shrink wrap over it. Loose resistors, such as the ones you can get at Radio Shack, have a 1" or 1-1/2" lead on each end. Make sure there's no strain on the wire after you're done, though. The resistor leads are very light gauge wire and can easily be broken or pulled loose from the resistor itself.


I guess that is the nut of the question. Soldering the resistor in does not seem difficult. BUT, the connection will be right near the steering head, and the other half of the connection will be going to the kill switch harness - meaning it will be moving back and forth a good bit with the clip-on's. I definitely do not want any flex in the wire connection. Snapped resistor would be bad on the track. Does anyone make a "hardened" version of these critters, or what if I put the wires through a narrow tube, soldered, then shrink-wrapped the whole thing? ... just trying to think of ways to take the stress off the resistor.

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[TarzanMan]

MacGuyver could do it with chewing gum and a broken stapler.

Also, if you're that concerned with stress on the resistor, cut down a small breadboard and use that

[steve c]

MacGuyver could do it with chewing gum and a broken stapler.

McGuyver could escape the enemy death camp on it, no problem. But, I bet he'd fix it right before he put it on a race track ;)

- Steve

[Nikk777]

I wired my bike up like this at the track at the GNF in 2009 and threw some electrical tape around everything. Held up all year last year! The resistor causes a drop over that wire which the ecu is looking for in order to allow the bike to start and run. A wiring diagram for your bike will help unless someone has it already laid out for you in a "how to". My kill switch now runs the bike completely so no key, no switch.

[steve c]

Da how-to... Note, this is for a second gen SV. Dunno about the 99-02's. h/t SV Rider

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[Nikk777]

Lucky guy! I had to download a fuzzy wiring diagram and figure it out on my own with some help from knapp's crew chief in the dark after wrecking at 120mph....memories!

[steve c]

Did the job last night. Props to Vengeance (he's still around) for coming over and being the third-hand. The diagram works even after the 3rd high gravity beer. :D
The only issues were getting the heat shrink in place *before* we started soldering :) Otherwise, all went well. Fired on the first try and ran beautifully.
We did fail to pull a couple of fuses the first go-round. This causes the bike to start and run properly, but it will not shut off :o That was easy enough to fix.

Regarding the resistor, I ended up soldering it in place and wrapping the solder joint in electrical tape (failure to preposition the heat shrink.) I aligned the resistor with another jumpered wire. Tapeing the two together took the stress off the resistor allaying my fears of stressing and breaking the resistor.

Thanks for all the input :up:

- Steve

[Nikk777]

Congrats! Makes life so much easier! Can't tell you how many times I left the switch on and ran the battery down or low on my race bike!

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Fired on the first try and ran beautifully.


That's muh girl.

[steve c]

I think my last mod on this will be to safety wire a safety pin next to the kill switch. Pin the kill switch in off position when the bike is in storage or being worked on (prevents unexpected power-up), leave the pin out while riding. Saw that mod at a shop the other day. Not a bad idea.

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[steve c]

That's muh girl.

Yeah, Jeff snapped a pic after we were done. Maybe he'll post up. {Jeff sent pic}

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2663

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Yeah, Jeff snapped a pic after we were done. Maybe he'll post up. {Jeff sent pic}

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2663

Sexy rearsets.

Hope you enjoy her as much as I did... I know you'll get a lot closer to her limits. :lol:

[steve c]

Sexy rearsets.

LOL, cheap rearsets. Scored a major deal on those. :)


Hope you enjoy her as much as I did... I know you'll get a lot closer to her limits. :lol:

hehe, thanks. Hopefully, I'll get right up to the edge, but not over the limits :)

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[NiceGuysFinishLast]

When you're looking for the edge of the bike's limits, don't forget to watch for where your luck runs out, too! :D

[steve c]

When you're looking for the edge of the bike's limits, don't forget to watch for where your luck runs out, too! :D

I have previous experience in these areas. ;)

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