Bike won't keep running after choke

[TwoFace1911]

A little background: I ride a GS500 which has pretty much been parked in my garage since the beginning of November. i decided to take it out today around the neighborhood so I could warm it up enough to add some chain lube. Before I parked it, I filled the gas tank.

Well today, I primed the bike for a few minutes before attempting to start it. I got on the bike and choked it, keeping it between 2 & 3,000 rpm for about 20 minutes. Whenever I took the choke off over the next few minutes of attempts, the bike would immediately die. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be happening?

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Sounds like a clogged pilot jet maybe.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Yup, carbs need to be cleaned. If you didn't add stabil, 5 months is PLENTY of time for the carbs to gum up. Easy enough project if you're mechanically inclined, and patient. Step by steps at gstwin.com/gsboard. Feel free to ask me any questions, I've done mine several times.

[Lazarus]

+3 on the main pilot jet being clogged. Its a tiny whole and letting it sit for a couple months with clog it easily. I have had my carbs cleaned on my 600R but I didn't do them. Seemed like a pretty laborious job.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Before you start, go to a hardware store and buy allen head bolts to replace the crappy stock philips head screws. They strip like nobody's business, so be sure to use a properly sized screwdriver to take them out, and immediately replace them with the allen heads. Go ahead and buy the gasket kits (you need 2, remember), because I figure for something so cheap, why risk putting the carbs back together, putting them on the bike, THEN figuring out there's a leaky gasket?

[TwoFace1911]

Yup, carbs need to be cleaned. If you didn't add stabil, 5 months is PLENTY of time for the carbs to gum up. Easy enough project if you're mechanically inclined, and patient. Step by steps at gstwin.com/gsboard. Feel free to ask me any questions, I've done mine several times.

DANGIT! I was going to add some Stabil, but the chick at the bike shop I went to (no names) said I wouldn't need it if the bike was topped off. This task (on the gstwin board) looks kinda intimidating, but I guess there's no time like the present to get in there and try to learn what I'm doing with my bike. How long did it take you to clean the carbs the first time you did it?

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

If you're methodical, it's not hard. Just pay attention, read through the directions a few times before you start. Work on a clean, flat, large, level surface. Spread a sheet, or white paper, to make it easy to find any little things (o-rings, screws, etc) that you might drop. Only work on one side at a time, so you can't cross parts. I think it took a couple hours (including removal from the bike) the first time, but I got MUCH quicker with practice. Getting the airbox off, and getting the boots back on the intakes when reassembling were the hardest part for me (Tip: for the carb boots, lube them liberally with vegetable oil before reassembling, it makes it MUCH easier). There should be step by step walk throughs with pictures, I swear it's not hard if you can turn a wrench. Also, a haynes manual, which can be purchased on amazon, or probably from a dealer, is SUPER useful, with detailed instructions and pictures.

[Yamaboi67]

How old was that gas? You may want to flush it, clean the carbs and try running it again. Aslo if its carburated check your floats.

[The Lazy Destroyer]

+1 to what NiceGuys said. The first carb job I did took me a few hours but I was also taking my time and going slowly. The work is not hard but the first time you do it you will probably want to reference a walkthrough. It is always easier after the first time you do it.

The hardest part for me was getting those damn float bowl screws out, like Nick said they are a phillips head and are very soft, if you use a screwdriver that is not the exact size you will likely strip it out. It can be removed if it gets stripped... it just makes it harder. Def get socket cap screws to replace them with, don't re-use the original ones! I would also suggest using some anti-seize compound on the screws. Do not over-tighten the bolts during reassembly... this just causes problems later on down the road.

[eddie98]

put some Seafoam in it and run it hard for a couple of miles. did that with my ninja 250 and it cleared itself out.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

You could try draining the tank, filling it with fresh 89, and adding seafoam (follow the directions on the bottle). If the varnishing is minor, this could do the trick. But my money is on a teardown and cleaning, I've had my GS for years now, and been on GStwins even longer, I know how this usually goes.

[DoctorDug]

carb vclean.tank flush...holler...

[TwoFace1911]

Does anyone know of a repair man or woman that may make house calls? At this point I'm a little frustrated even getting the carb out, I guess I'm worried about breaking/tearing the hoses and the wires running from the throttle and choke. I'm just looking for some recommendations in the case that this task becomes a little to daunting for me. I would like to get out before it gets to 100 degrees all day and before riding season ends. thanks for the assistance

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

If you were closer, I'd help out, I'm sorry. One thing I didn't take into consideration is the fairings, my GS is naked, I imagine things are harder to work on without removing them. Make a new thread, see if anyone's close and willing to come lend a hand.

[ga_skyline_rydr]

Erik this may sound really stupid but check your idle control knob before you start tearing into anything. If your bike is running on choke the idle control may be slightly too low. For a diagram of your GS go to www.ronayers.com and look up the fische on your bike and you will get a blown up picture of the various components of your bike.

[A&A Motorsports]

put some Seafoam in it and run it hard for a couple of miles. did that with my ninja 250 and it cleared itself out.

I love "SeaFoam". Used in on a car of mine and it cleans the injectors like you wouldnt imagine. great Stuff.

[Lazarus]

Seafoam aint gonna fix his problem. I mean he can try but he needs to get those carbs clean.

[TwoFace1911]

Seafoam aint gonna fix his problem. I mean he can try but he needs to get those carbs clean.

yeah, it was earlier suggested that I put seafoam in it and ride it hard for a few miles, but that seems rather impossible since when I get it in first is when it shuts off

[TwoFace1911]

Erik this may sound really stupid but check your idle control knob before you start tearing into anything. If your bike is running on choke the idle control may be slightly too low. For a diagram of your GS go to www.ronayers.com and look up the fische on your bike and you will get a blown up picture of the various components of your bike.


Thanks for the assistance, I actually have the GS500 manual and the Haynes Manual as suggested by NGFL. I'm going to read through them a couple of times and hopefully something just clicks

[PhilJonez]

I know very little, but sounds like it could definitely be the idle somehow got set too low and needs to be uppped. On the GS500, it's super easy to turn the idle up, I'd try that first (would explain why putting it in gear stalls it as there'd be a little more drag once you put it in gear and that might be enough to stall the engine). Don't need to do anything other than reach under the fuel tank with your hand to change the idle (so no removing fairings or anything).

But again, I don't know a ton, so could be completely off base.

[ga_skyline_rydr]

I know very little, but sounds like it could definitely be the idle somehow got set too low and needs to be uppped. On the GS500, it's super easy to turn the idle up, I'd try that first (would explain why putting it in gear stalls it as there'd be a little more drag once you put it in gear and that might be enough to stall the engine). Don't need to do anything other than reach under the fuel tank with your hand to change the idle (so no removing fairings or anything).

But again, I don't know a ton, so could be completely off base.

I concur with this and the reason I brought it up is that all of my bikes with the exception of one were carbauration(sp) and when the temps shifted the idle had to be adjusted. I don't know the mechanics of why just something I learned over the years. Kind of like a winter temp idle and a summer temp idle. Seems to work for me.

[DoctorDug]

if you get them off i can rebuild them for you

[TwoFace1911]

OK, so back for a 2nd opinion from you guys. I decided to try the Seafoam idea first and see if that helps the issue before I completely give up and take it to Suzuki or something.

Over the past couple of days I have been warming the bike up with the choke on, then riding it around my apt. complex a few times with the choke on before easing back the choke and having the bike rely less on it. I've been able to successfully ride with the choke all the way off with the only problem being with the bike comes to a stop, it seems to idle for a few moments and unless I give it some throttle, it will start to sputter before it dies.

Does that still sound like it's the carbs or do you think that the seafoam will do the trick if I continue using it?

[DoctorDug]

aaaaaaaaah! i love those shortcuts.they really don't work/but sometimes you get lucky. pull/clean/install/ride/enjoy.and somewhere in there /pay/

[smokintalon]

put some Seafoam in it and run it hard for a couple of miles. did that with my ninja 250 and it cleared itself out.

negative on the Seafoam... it will eat through the gunk AND the seals everytime! There is some stuff that Yamaha makes that will clean it out 9/10 times without removing the carbs... I'll get back to you in the am with the name of the stuff. It's about $14 for a bottle, but if it saves a headache, why not? And it is the pilot jets clogged.

[DoctorDug]

negative on the Seafoam... it will eat through the gunk AND the seals everytime! There is some stuff that Yamaha makes that will clean it out 9/10 times without removing the carbs... I'll get back to you in the am with the name of the stuff. It's about $14 for a bottle, but if it saves a headache, why not? And it is the pilot jets clogged.

i Yamah carb cleaner. its great.mostly but left in too long will FRY O'rings and and exposed rubber. to me.basic goog cleaning is the way to go. i get my foot caught every time i ever tried a shortcut. I'd guess my success rate at short-cuts was 50/50.and %100 from pull/clean and rebuild. that includes tank flushing.sometimes pet-cock rebuild or replace.It can leak from the vaccume side and cause all kinds of havok.and give most ave techs a fit,or comebacks. when you finish all the gypsy repair, give me a shout.

[smokintalon]

i Yamah carb cleaner. its great.mostly but left in too long will FRY O'rings and and exposed rubber. to me.basic goog cleaning is the way to go. i get my foot caught every time i ever tried a shortcut. I'd guess my success rate at short-cuts was 50/50.and %100 from pull/clean and rebuild. that includes tank flushing.sometimes pet-cock rebuild or replace.It can leak from the vaccume side and cause all kinds of havok.and give most ave techs a fit,or comebacks. when you finish all the gypsy repair, give me a shout.

I didn't realize that stuff does the same as seafoam... And I agree.. Everytime I have tried a "shortcut" working on a bike, it takes three times longer because you get to go back and do it again and fix the extra stuff from not doing it right the first time. It is time consuming to rebuild them, but it is the best way if you want it right. Although if you've already put seafoam in it, try the yama cleaner... I used it before. Drained the bowls on the bike, then fill them from the inlets with this stuff. Let it sit for about 45 min to an hour, then let it run.

[DoctorDug]

funny:by the manual from the 70's/80's but not the 90's hmmmm. actually the EPA killed the original formula that did just what you said. take a tube from yamaha factory tool shelf and force yamaha carb cleaner up the drain tube.YEEOUCH!or sounds funky!but it was in the repair manual in the old days. ithink that why that info still floats around,but again;EPA killed all the good Chems.before they could kill us,or the fish downstream.

[TwoFace1911]

Thanks for all the assistance, I'm just gonna go ahead and take it to Suzuki and let them deal with the headache of it all.

[Lazarus]

Thanks for all the assistance, I'm just gonna go ahead and take it to Suzuki and let them deal with the headache of it all.

Call and get a quote for cleaning of the carbs, jetting, etc and then call a local shop. If you are going to pay, pay less.