Track Tires: what's my next step up?

[Dave1kRR]

For several years I had used only Michelin Pilot Powers or 2CTs. This year, getting a really good deal for Bstone BT-016's in a 120/70 and 190/55, I've been really impressed. Now, I've had to full days at the track on this set. One day was Roebling in May and the other at Tally in June. I want to run them at my next track day in Alabama, do you think I'll be ok on them for a Sunday only?

My next question is for my next set. Should I do a race tire like the PP race or BT003 or 211 GPA? or go straight to slicks like Dunlop ntecs . I know Todd was saying he really liked the new R10's at Tally in June, then at Barber in July, (both X-Act days with Bstone tire support)

I run mid to upper intermediate times. Thanks!

[Nikk777]

Are you running warmers? Ntec's, PP's, GPA's, and R10's will need warmers.

Do you ride the street or track only? Q2's can handle both at your pace very well and with no need for warmers at a very low price.

I'm a dunlop guy but very curious about the R10's actually. Couldn't pay me to ride michelins...(too many stories from guys being put on their head from a front tire letting go with no warning). I've ran the same front ntec tire all year on my racebike. Only changed the rears...

[Dave1kRR]

I currently do not run warmers, but plan to. My bike is track only, no street at all. Your comment about the michelin's is correct, by the end of the day new or not Mich Pilot powers and 2cts would start breaking loose, which is why I am so impressed with the Bstone. Thanks for the reply, Nikk.

[Ga-Bandit]

The Pilot Powers and/or 2Ct was not designed for a track.

My Pures have lasted 3 weekends and not a sign of slippage until this last weekend and it let me know way in advance.

[Dave1kRR]

The Pilot Powers and/or 2Ct was not designed for a track.

My Pures have lasted 3 weekends and not a sign of slippage until this last weekend and it let me know way in advance.

Good to know, thanks. I haven't tried the Pures yet. :up:

[Moorespeedr]

I saw several folks running the Power Ones this weekend, and talked to the vendor about them. Of course, anybody can say anything about what they are selling, but I looked them up online to back up his statements. They are a more track oriented tire than my Q2s. I wanted to try a set of them myself.

[Nikk777]

The Pilot Powers and/or 2Ct was not designed for a track.

My Pures have lasted 3 weekends and not a sign of slippage until this last weekend and it let me know way in advance.

The 2ct actually was touted as a "trackday" tire originally. Not sure what the press on it is now. I started out on 2ct's and they slid on me going into a turn(the bowl at tally) off the gas... But actually my statement as to not riding michelins refers more to the race tires and the common story that surrounds them and the tendency to let go without warning. With the dunlops, the front will push to let you know it's about gone and the rear will spin up controllably which can be worn down to near the cords if you dare...

[BiggsRR07]

I did 3 TD's last year on my 09 600RR and 1700 street miles on a set of pures and they never slipped once (but I'm a slow poke) Even sold the bike with them still mounted and they were still good. I ran a set of PP2ct's before and I can attest to them sliding without warning and it scared the sh*t outta me because its so sudden. I ran a set of supercorsa's which felt great and have a 'controled' slide if they do break loose but it gives you ton's of feebback to correct and adjust. I'm running power one's now and I love em. No complaints yet. I have a set of 209's on standby for the track tho. I've never ran them before but I will next month.

[Derrick]

003RS, Pures, Q2, Power One Commercial...no warmers needed.

[SpeedyR]

I run pirelli supercorsas or metzeler Racetechs. I don't run warmers with them in the summer and they are fine, I just take it easy my first lap and then I"m good to go. for my speeds they work fine, are plenty durable, and I use them on the street as well (when I get DOTs) and no problems there. I've gone thru probably 20 sets over the years since my street bike is my track bike as well. not so much fun in the rain but they work fine, I've done a couple of thousand mile weekends in the rain and dual sporting (on the CBR) with pirelli DOT's and it's all good. just don't lean over far. :)

[1badfish]

Im in the same place. i ride about mid pack Intermidiate on an 07 GSXR 600 track only bike. Just went thru a set of B Stones 003 RS. I actually thought i'd purchased the true track 003 tires but learned after the shop had mounted them that they were the 003 RS. They worked fine for my pace, which i figure says something about my pace. Sad. I LOVE the price point of the B Stones!!! A set for a little over 200.
Anyway, i'm looking into getting something new without getting too much tire for my skill level. Ain't no sense waisting money.
Considering Michelin Power One, Dunlop 211 GPA, and if i can find them the B Stone R10.
Now, i'm pretty loyal with the outfits i buy from, generally buying from STG when i can. STG seems to promote the Pwr. One, my local race shop promotes Dunlop 211 GPA and like i said my wallet likes the stones.
Dunlops: about $380
Michelins: about $360
BStones (003RS): $211 at STG. They apparantly dont carry the newish R10 from B Stone.
I'm afraid asking opinions on track tires is like the ever present, "best oil" thread. I DO NOT want to need warmers. Yes, i know at track days, one doesn't really NEEDS warmers. its a track day not a race. But i don't want to want them.

[ramm]

I just picked up some B-R10's. Can't wait to try em out.

[randall05R1]

let me know what your input is on the R10 Ramm

[ramm]

let me know what your input is on the R10 Ramm

I'm willing to bet that they will be more tire than I can take advantage of. :lol: I'll prolly break em in at Tally in 2 weeks.

[Todd]

I'm willing to bet that they will be more tire than I can take advantage of. :lol: I'll prolly break em in at Tally in 2 weeks.im willing to bet so too. :lol: it wasnt till i started pushing them past 1:01's at Tally did i start to push the front, and part of that push was rider error.

[021less]

this may be the deciding factor if i can afford to go to this track day at little tally coming up. My bike has Pilot Powers on it, and don't really know if i can afford a set of track tires down there. I'm used to street riding, and i'm quick (not super fast).... but really don't want my tires letting go on the track first time out.... or ever really if i can help it lol

[ramm]

im willing to bet so too. :lol: it wasnt till i started pushing them past 1:01's at Tally did i start to push the front, and part of that push was rider error.

:lol: What compound were you running? How long did they last you?

[A1willson]

I don't know if you have an interest in running a slick but you could try the Pirelli Superbike Pro. These slicks do not require warmers and thankfully so because I forgot my warmers the last time I was at Barber. After the first lap they we ready to go for me at Barber. The thing that sold me was how long they are suppose to last. So far I have three track days on mine and they still look great. They do not have as much grip on a really hot day as my GPA's but if they last a lot longer I'm willing to give up a little speed since I'm just out having fun and not racing. Here is a good review on them.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/545/8185/Motorcycle-Article/Pirelli-Diablo-Superbike-PRO-Tire-Review.aspx

[Dave1kRR]

I just picked up some B-R10's. Can't wait to try em out.

If you don't mind me asking where did you get and how much did they cost?

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

[ramm]

If you don't mind me asking where did you get and how much did they cost?

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

R6 message boards. A guy had 2 brand new sets for $350.00. I got one and some other guy got the other.

They're usually $380.

[Todd]

They're usually $380.$375....................jus' sayin'.

[Todd]

:lol: What compound were you running? How long did they last you?
medium front, medium rear. When i finally pushed it, they probably had 35-45 laps on them, all at 1:01-1:02 pace. It was the pic i posted up you guys saw. There were 2 issues that caused that, i went in WAY hotter than i normally do trying to get that xtra 10th of a second or so, which in turn caused me to lean WAYY the F over, so when i got back in the gas, i was still so far over that the front suspension unloaded allowing the tire to lose grip. The second was, as i told you in a PM earlier, i wasnt running the pressures up quite high enuff either. This was my very first time on the tires, so i had some experimenting to do. Thats the only reason i dont really like changing tire brands. Once you get used to a tire and have alot of confidence in it, changing tire manf.'s means you have to go thru that process all over again. And, unfortunately, sometimes the only way you can find out the limit of traction, is to exceed it, and sometimes that puts you on your head.

by the end of the day, i was still running 1's and 2's, and had around 75-80 laps on the tires. Keep in mind, i went out in EVERY intermediate session of the day CR'ing, and then id go out about every other advanced session to give the tires a good thrashing. Let me just say, by the end of the day, this old ass was whooped.

For the money, i dont think there is a race tire out there thats any better than the R10. The UK NTEC Dunlops still have the edge, especially on the front tire, hell, in 5 years of running Dunlops, ive NEVER pushed the front. But the R10, IMO, for $375/set absolutely cannot be beat, its as close to Dunlop "sticky" as any race tire out there.

Dunlop's UK = over $500/set

Stones R10 = $375/set

You decide. :)

[ramm]

medium front, medium rear. When i finally pushed it, they probably had 35-45 laps on them, all at 1:01-1:02 pace. It was the pic i posted up you guys saw. There were 2 issues that caused that, i went in WAY hotter than i normally do trying to get that xtra 10th of a second or so, which in turn caused me to lean WAYY the F over, so when i got back in the gas, i was still so far over that the front suspension unloaded allowing the tire to lose grip. The second was, as i told you in a PM earlier, i wasnt running the pressures up quite high enuff either. This was my very first time on the tires, so i had some experimenting to do. Thats the only reason i dont really like changing tire brands. Once you get used to a tire and have alot of confidence in it, changing tire manf.'s means you have to go thru that process all over again. And, unfortunately, sometimes the only way you can find out the limit of traction, is to exceed it, and sometimes that puts you on your head.

by the end of the day, i was still running 1's and 2's, and had around 75-80 laps on the tires.

Cool, that's what I'm getting Med/Med. 75/80 a lot or just avg for race tires?

Brett was telling me that as well, about picking a manufacturer and sticking with them.

[Todd]

Cool, that's what I'm getting Med/Med. 75/80 a lot or just avg for race tires?

Brett was telling me that as well, about picking a manufacturer and sticking with them.
Thats alot for race tires, and for someone that runs an intermediate pace, lets say turning 4's or 5's, I'd say you could get 100 or more laps out of them. Naturally, the slower you are, the more laps you'll get out of this or any tire. Youre simply not putting anywhere near the stress on it that you will going faster.

[ramm]

Thats alot for race tires, and for someone that runs an intermediate pace, lets say turning 4's or 5's, I'd say you could get 100 or more laps out of them. Naturally, the slower you are, the more laps you'll get out of this or any tire. Youre simply not putting anywhere near the stress on it that you will going faster.

Awesome. :up:

[matt1986vf500f]

I've run bridgestones BT016's for the past 4 years GREAT street tires but when you get them on the track thats a differents story for a novice rider probably would be ok when i rode them at RA they didn't start sliding till the last seasion
and nearly highsided me i swapped to the power pure's with no warmers the tires were heated by the second lap!

[Todd]

I've run bridgestones BT016's for the past 4 years GREAT street tires but when you get them on the track thats a differents story for a novice rider probably would be ok when i rode them at RA they didn't start sliding till the last seasion
and nearly highsided me i swapped to the power pure's with no warmers the tires were heated by the second lap!Ive said this before, and i'll say it here again, for those who use street tires on the track.

A common question that is asked: "When do i know its time to go from street rubber to track rubber?". Short answer is "when you wind up on your head" :lol:

Something to keep in mind and let you make your own decision is this, STREET tires are designed for virtually unlimited heat cycles. They heat up quick, they cool down quick, its just the nature of the construction and compound of the tire. When riding street tires on the track, keep in mind that a street tire even tho it IS designed to heat quickly, its also NOT designed to have 20 solid minutes of pushing to the extremes of race track conditions. In other words, you CAN over heat them and they WILL get greasy. An inexperienced rider will often crash because he doesnt have the experience to feel the feed back the tires are giving. When they get greasy, they'll start moving around, typically the rear starts before the front since most newbs on street tires have no problems exiting a corner and hammering the throttle but are usually very timid entering the turn, so theyre putting alot of stress on the street tire. One of the problems with this, as ive seen doing control riding is most of the time, the rider is nailing the gas, and i see them leaving a blackie halfway down the straight, and they dont even realize their spinning the tire up (i know this because ive gone to them and asked if they knew). So then, as the day goes on, and their confidence goes up, they naturally start riding faster and more aggressively, which CAN, not always does, but CAN lead to them getting a little TOO aggressive and end up crashing, and of course wondering WHY they crashed because the tires had been "working so well all the other times".

Just food for thought for you guys on street tires. Youre bike is always talking to you, its up to you to listen to it and understand what its saying. 99 times out of 100, it will tell you with plenty of warning that its going to spit you off if you dont adjust. :)

[matt1986vf500f]

Ive said this before, and i'll say it here again, for those who use street tires on the track.

A common question that is asked: "When do i know its time to go from street rubber to track rubber?". Short answer is "when you wind up on your head" :lol:

Something to keep in mind and let you make your own decision is this, STREET tires are designed for virtually unlimited heat cycles. They heat up quick, they cool down quick, its just the nature of the construction and compound of the tire. When riding street tires on the track, keep in mind that a street tire even tho it IS designed to heat quickly, its also NOT designed to have 20 solid minutes of pushing to the extremes of race track conditions. In other words, you CAN over heat them and they WILL get greasy. An inexperienced rider will often crash because he doesnt have the experience to feel the feed back the tires are giving. When they get greasy, they'll start moving around, typically the rear starts before the front since most newbs on street tires have no problems exiting a corner and hammering the throttle but are usually very timid entering the turn, so theyre putting alot of stress on the street tire. One of the problems with this, as ive seen doing control riding is most of the time, the rider is nailing the gas, and i see them leaving a blackie halfway down the straight, and they dont even realize their spinning the tire up (i know this because ive gone to them and asked if they knew). So then, as the day goes on, and their confidence goes up, they naturally start riding faster and more aggressively, which CAN, not always does, but CAN lead to them getting a little TOO aggressive and end up crashing, and of course wondering WHY they crashed because the tires had been "working so well all the other times".

Just food for thought for you guys on street tires. Youre bike is always talking to you, its up to you to listen to it and understand what its saying. 99 times out of 100, it will tell you with plenty of warning that its going to spit you off if you dont adjust. :)

I 100% completely agree with that.

[ramm]

Ive said this before, and i'll say it here again, for those who use street tires on the track.

A common question that is asked: "When do i know its time to go from street rubber to track rubber?". Short answer is "when you wind up on your head" :lol:

Something to keep in mind and let you make your own decision is this, STREET tires are designed for virtually unlimited heat cycles. They heat up quick, they cool down quick, its just the nature of the construction and compound of the tire. When riding street tires on the track, keep in mind that a street tire even tho it IS designed to heat quickly, its also NOT designed to have 20 solid minutes of pushing to the extremes of race track conditions. In other words, you CAN over heat them and they WILL get greasy. An inexperienced rider will often crash because he doesnt have the experience to feel the feed back the tires are giving. When they get greasy, they'll start moving around, typically the rear starts before the front since most newbs on street tires have no problems exiting a corner and hammering the throttle but are usually very timid entering the turn, so theyre putting alot of stress on the street tire. One of the problems with this, as ive seen doing control riding is most of the time, the rider is nailing the gas, and i see them leaving a blackie halfway down the straight, and they dont even realize their spinning the tire up (i know this because ive gone to them and asked if they knew). So then, as the day goes on, and their confidence goes up, they naturally start riding faster and more aggressively, which CAN, not always does, but CAN lead to them getting a little TOO aggressive and end up crashing, and of course wondering WHY they crashed because the tires had been "working so well all the other times".

Just food for thought for you guys on street tires. Youre bike is always talking to you, its up to you to listen to it and understand what its saying. 99 times out of 100, it will tell you with plenty of warning that its going to spit you off if you dont adjust. :)

:up:

[Dave1kRR]

Well put, Todd. Now I need to scrape 300 bucks together for new tires this month. I've got two days on BT-016's. Now I'm skeptical to run them at Barber! :up: